Destination Guide : Phatthalung

Phatthalung is an ancient city in southern Thailand. It is a land of mountains. In town is Khao Ok Thalu, which is clearly visible from afar. Phatthalung is regarded as the birthplace of the shadow play and the Nora dance. From ancient times to the present, Phatthalung has been closely linked to Songkhla Province, particularly in terms of geography, history and migratory settlements through many ages.

During the Srivijaya period (13th-14th Buddhist century), the Phatthalung community received Indian cultural influence in the way of Mahayana Buddhism. In the reign of King Ramathibodi I (U Thong) of Ayutthaya, Phatthalung became one of twelve royal cities. Later during the reign of King Rama I in the Rattanakosin period, the king had the Ministry of Defense oversee Phatthalung, upgraded it to secondary city status and moved it to the mouth of Pam River.

When there was an administration reform in the reign of King Rama V, Phatthalung prefecture came under Nakhon Si Thammarat prefecture until 1924, when King Rama VI relocated the city to Tambon Khuha Sawan where it has been ever since. Upon the abolition of the prefecture system in 1933, Phatthalung became a province outright.

Phatthalung city is situated on the west bank of Songkhla Lake, about 846 kilometres from Bangkok. It has an area of 3,424.473 square kilometres and is divided into 10 districts and 1 sub-district, as follows: Mueang Phatthalung, Khuan Khanun, Pak Phayun, Kong Ra, Tamot, Khao Chaison, Pa Bon, Bang Kaeo, Si Banphot, Pa Phayom, and the sub-district of Srinagarindra.



Boundary

North - Borders Chauat in Nakhon Si Thammarat and Ranot in Songkhla.
South - Borders Rattaphum and Khuan Niang in Songkhla and Khuan Kalong in Satun.
East - Borders Songkhla Lake, Ranot, Krasae Sin, Sathing Phra, and Singhanakhon in Songkhla.
West - Borders Nakhon Si Thammarat (Banthat) mountain range, Huai Yot, Mueang Trang, Na Yong, Yan Ta Khao, and Palian in Trang.
Wat Tham Khuha Sawan

This temple is at the foot of Khao Khuha Sawan near Phatthalung market. A left-hand road at Khao Hua Taek takes visitors to the temple. The temple was built in the Ayutthaya period and was later upgraded to be the first royal temple in the province. Inside the cave is a large reclining Buddha image and another in a sitting posture. The cave walls and entrance are full of initials of many kings and royal family members.



Khao Ok Thalu

Situated on Highway No. 4047, Khao Ok Thalu rises majestically east of the train station. This mountain is a symbol of the province. It is about 250 metres high. Stairs lead up to the summit where visitors can get a panoramic view of the province. The name of the mountain derives from a hole near the top that allows people to see through it.






Namtok Phraiwan
This waterfall is in the Khao Banthat Wildlife Reserve, Tambon Khlong Chaloem. To get there, go from Khlong Muai by the Tambon Lam Sin-Ban Kong Ra road (Highway No. 4122) for about 20 kilometres. The waterfall entrance is to the west about 3 kilometres away. This is a large waterfall with serene natural surroundings that are rich in tropical flora. A parking area and a restaurant are available.

Thale Noi Waterfowl Reserve

Thale Noi is the largest waterfowl reserve in Thailand. It can be reached via Highway No. 4048 from Amphoe Muang to Amphoe Khuan Khanun and to Thale Noi, for a total distance of 32 kilometres. The road is paved asphalt all the way. The reserve is the responsibility of the Royal Forestry Department and covers 450 square kilometres, divided into 422 square kilometres of land (94%) and 28 square kilometres of water (6%), or Thale Noi.

The sea is 5 kilometres wide and 6 kilometres long with an average depth of 1.2 metres. The sea is covered with assorted flora such as lotus, bulrush, reed, and grass used for thatching. More than 187 species of waterfowls, migratory and indigenous birds make their home at Thale Noi. Some live here throughout the year and some migrate only in winter from October to March when the population density is at its highest. The low season is June-September which is the nesting period.

Species that are prevalent here are those of the heron and stork family such as yellow bittern, great egret, painted stork, red stork; ducks such as lesser whistling duck, cotton pygmy goose, and garganey; grebe; rails such as white-browed crake, white-breasted waterhen, watercock, common moorhen, and Eurasian coot; jacanas such as pheasant-tailed jacana and bronze-winged jacana; cormorants such as great cormorant and little cormorant; black-winged stilt; Brahminy kite; red-wattled lapwing; whiskered tern; common kingfisher; and barn swallow.

The best time to study flora and fauna is during October-March when there is an abundance of birds and pink lotus in full bloom cover the reserve. Moreover, tourists can visit villages and see cottage industries like reed mat making.

Thale Noi has been named the first world ramsar site (wetland site) in Thailand. This aims to preserve the sustainable ecology of the area, one that is being developed into one of the countrys most important nature study centres. As such, there is careful control of eco-tourism in Thale Noi in order to minimize impact on the environment.

Tourists can take boats from Thale Noi pier and go on two routes; the first one for tourists with services by the Thale Noi community and the second for academics and nature study by requesting permission and guide from a reserve official. The reserve has comfortable accommodation. For more information, please contact the Royal Forestry Department in Bangkok, tel: 0 2579 7223, 0 2579 5734, and Thale Noi Non-hunting Area, tel: 0 7468 5230.

Travel to Thale Noi is easy by boat and car. Access can be made from seaside districts like Ranot, Sathing Phra and Mueang of Songkhla, and Pak Phayun, Khuan Khanun and Mueang of Phatthalung. Visitors by train can alight at Pak Khlong station and continue by car to Thale Noi for 8 kilometres.

Namtok Tamot

Also called Namtok Mom Chui, this waterfall is 12 kilometres from the district office. Take Highway No. 4121 and Highway No. 4137 (south of Phatthalung city) from Highway No. 4 all the way to Wat Tamot. The waterfall is located in Tamot Wildlife Protection Unit, about 4-5 kilometres past the temple. The waterfall is in the middle of a lush forest. The waterfall falls down several levels that have different names to a pool below. A wide rock plateau is suitable for relaxation.


Ko Si and Ko Ha

Both islands, in Songkhla Lake, can be reached by leaving from Tambon Lam Pam pier (25 kilometres) or Pak Phayun pier (10 kilometres). The travelling time is about 1 hour. The islands are home of flocks of sea swallows, so many that they are called Ko Rang Nok (birds nest island). Concessions are given out for the collection of the nests for sale. The natural beauty of the islands is one of the finest in Phatthalung. King Rama V once visited here and left his initials on a cliff. Nearby is a monument of him. As Ko Si and Ko Ha are concession areas of the private sector, permission must first be obtained in Pak Phayun district.

Phraya Thukrat monument

This monument is at Tha Miram intersection in Phatthalung municipality. Records show that Phraya Thukrat was a monk named Phra Maha Chuai who resided at Wat Pa Lilai during the reign of King Rama I. When the Nine Armies War took place, Phra Maha Chuai rallied villagers to help Phraya Phatthalung defeat Burmese forces. When he left the monkhood, he was appointed by the king to be Phraya Thukrat to help the city lord. His title of Phraya was of the same level as the city lord.





Shadow Play Handicrafts Village

This is at Mu 1, Ban Bang Kaeo, Tambon Tha Madua. It is about 9 kilometres from the Phetchakasem-railway intersection and 200 metres from the railway to the centre. The total distance from Phatthalung city to the village is about 36 kilometres.






The village has 25 members, all of whom make shadow play figures from hides in various styles made to order. The work is delicate and beautiful. The products are sold nationwide and exported to about 16 countries. For persons interested in seeing and buying shadow play products, please contact Mr. Im Chanchum, the centres president, or the Amphoe Bang Kaeo Community Development Office at tel: 0 7469 7380.

Talung (shadow play) is a regional performance of southern Thailand that is as popular as Nora. Like Nora, Phatthalung is also regarded as the birthplace of Talung. Each shadow play figure is made from raw cowhide that has been dried and then cut into shapes. Each figure is ornately printed with designs, with black usually covering the entire figure. Thinner hides will have colouring. The figures are held up by bamboo sticks, with the mouth and hands movable in tune with the narration.

The Talung hall has a thatched roof and three walls. It has a white cloth screen. Behind it is where the figures are kept. The entire troupe of musicians and puppeteers number not more than 8 persons. Musical instruments include pipe, drum and gong. The figure performance is the duty of the head of the troupe who both operate the figures and narrate. The stories are from literature or newly written tales.

Tourism Authority of Thailand : http://www.tourismthailand.org